Local and/or General

Oh dear, where did this year go? Where did this month go? I thought I should put something up today as Consumas day is fast approaching, quickly to be followed by the end of the year. This may be my last chance to get my stats up for the year! Only kidding, there are a few things that have been on my mind lately, so I thought I would put them in one big post and get them all out there.

The main thing I want to talk about is “Native Plants”. I have had many people tell me “I have no room for vegies in my garden, I only grow natives”. There are a number of reasons for this, native plants often have a lower water requirement than their thirsty exotic cousins, and may be lower maintenance in general. They also have particular value in preventing erosion on steep sites, and along rivers and creeks, where other plants may not be established, and access is limited. They can provide habitat and food for native birds, reptiles, amphibians and insects, all of which may be predators of garden pests. But many of them tend to suppress the growth of other plants growing underneath or around them, and there are other issues with including them in a mixed garden. But what do people mean when they talk about gardening with  “Natives” in Australia?

This Eucalypt was planted too close to this block of flats, and is really too big for the garden it's in. Note that it has already lost several large branches.

Australia was isolated from the rest of the world for millions of years, resulting in a hugely different ecology than that which may be found elsewhere, especially that of the Northern Hemisphere. Australia avoided the glacial coverage of the last Ice Ages which affected most of Europe and North America, and so the ecosystems here are much older than theirs. Lack of competition from more recently evolved species means that plants and animals survived here that are not present anywhere else in the world.

Take, for example, the monotremes. Echidnas and platypus are the last remnants of a transitional phase between reptiles and mammals. Their young hatch from eggs, yet they have fur, and the mothers feed them with milk. The rest of the marsupials are also unknown in the rest of the world. They have been replaced by placental mammals for the most part, who carry their young for much longer rather than having them develop in a pouch. The plants are equally as “unusual”, certainly when viewed, as they were, from a European scientific perspective by white colonists.

The Australian vegetation often relies on fire for its survival. The fire cycle varies throughout the country, but is present in most areas, except, notably, rainforests. The main difference between regions is the period between fires, which to a great degree influences what kind of vegetation cover is present. The longer the gap between fires, the larger the trees tend to be, and the more closed their canopy. The Eucalypts are often the tallest, most dominant species in fire dependent systems, and they are also among the most flammable, the oils in their leaves being especially liable to burn. In other areas, Melaleucas or Tea Trees may dominate, and they also produce flammable oils. This feature alone makes them not generally undesirable for planting near houses, not to mention their often excessive size at maturity.

But lets look more closely at what “native” really means. In Australia there are estimated to be over 15,000 endemic plant species. They grow in range of conditions from tropical to sub-Antarctic, from coastal areas to mountain tops, on soils ranging from sand to the heaviest clay, and every combination of these. A plant indigenous to the Swan River in Perth is as far from home in Cooma, New South Wales as a Welshman in Siberia. Planting of Australian plants outside their native range can also disrupt migration patterns of birds, in particular. Certain bird species feed on nectar for one part of the year, and migrate to other areas when the nectar runs out to feed on insects and other protein rich food sources. If nectar is available all year, the birds do not migrate, and their health or that of their offspring may be affected. So native doesn’t tell us all that much. Plants that were originally found in a particular area prior to European settlement should be referred to as “Local Indigenous” plants.

Local indigenous plants are the plants that are unarguably best adapted to the area in which they were originally found. But things change. The soil, in particular, will be unlikely to have remained unaltered by the European influence over the last 200 years. Most residential areas have been developed on what was once farmland, meaning the soil is disturbed physically, due to cultivation, and chemically, as fertilisers and additives would have been added to increase productivity. The pH and salinity levels may also have changed. In short, putting local indigenous plants back in the same place may not be to their advantage under such conditions.

There is an argument for providing habitat for native fauna, though anyone who has tried to grow food when there are possums around will know that our food is just as tasty to them as it is to us. Another major issue is fragmentation. Small, isolated patches of native vegetation are difficult to maintain, and provide little habitat individually for the animals, birds and insects they may attract. The actual attraction itself may be dangerous for animals, encouraging them to cross roads, for example, in order to migrate from one patch to the next. Moving from one yard to another will also place them in the vicinity of domestic dogs and cats, who are probably not well versed in conservation issues, and could see small animals and birds as play things, or as threats. Large, continuous patches of vegetation are best for conservation purposes, where animals can migrate freely throughout the range.

Swamp paperbark is often used as a street tree, its natural tolerance of low oxygen levels in the root zone make it ideal for growing in heavily paved or high traffic areas.

Lastly, I can’t help but think about the unseen impact of purely aesthetic gardens in towns and cities. It basically means that all the requirements of the settlements must come from somewhere else. Rural areas are cleared, and the local environment around productive farm land is damaged by the processes. Not taking responsibility for needs in the same location as we live means just displacing the loss of indigenous vegetation elsewhere. It is very much a case of  “Out of sight, our of mind” in that we lower the aesthetic and conservation values of the places our food comes from, while surrounding ourselves with whatever attractive plants we prefer. Some Australian plants have specific uses in cities and towns, like the Swamp Paperbark (Melaleuca ericifolia) as a street tree. But few have been selected or bred specifically for food to the extent that most exotic agricultural and horticultural crops have.

The way I look at it, people should have the plants they need, mostly food plants, close to where they live. I don’t believe productive gardens need necessarily be unattractive. Personally I can think of few more delightful ideas than lounging in a garden full of food in any season throughout the year. If we move away from the strict rows and spacing that are taught as the “proper” way to grow, this idea is easier to imagine. For the most part, the arrangement of plants in straight rows a certain distance apart from each other is of benefit to large scale operations, for planting, spraying and harvesting often using machinery. On a small scale, such limitations are reduced or removed. Sure, if you plant four Tomatoes close together, each plant produces less tomatoes, or smaller tomatoes. But what household needs more than a few tomatoes a day? And the more individual plants you have in an area, the more chance of staving of disease. Even on a small backyard scale, genetic diversity makes for a more robust system.

If you really want to plant natives, make sure they are the species that actually grew originally in your area. Make sure the seed was collected from as near as possible to the site where they are to grow. And unless there is some major issue with the site, such as soil toxicity, try growing some of your own food as well, so there’s less pressure on places you may never even visit. Hopefully there’s a few points to ponder over the Festive break. My best wishes to all readers for the new year, and make a resolution to get stuck into that garden!

You say Tomato, I say Tomatillo

Tomatoes are the most widely home-grown vegetable, but as I have repeatedly pointed out, when something is in season locally, it’s also at its cheapest in the shops and at market. I also like growing things that are unusual and interesting, or rare, just because I am a contrary so-and-so. And that’s why I became interested in the genus Physalis.

Closely related to the Tomato in the family Solanaceae, Physalis species are found throughout the world, and include the ornamental Chinese Lanterns (Physalis alkengi) grown for it’s colourful red “fruit”. The entire genus produce their tomato-like fruit concealed in a papery husk, formed by expansion of the calyx, which tends to protect the fruit from insects and birds. The fruit predominantly ripen to an orange colour, though many are edible before then.

Cape Gooseberry plant that overwintered in a sheltered spot. Not the fruits alrady developing in their husks

The two most commonly grown species are the Tomatillo (Spanish for “little Tomato’) or Tomate verde (P. philadelphica) which is the primary ingredient in Mexican green salsa and mole. It is often replaced by green capsicum in countries where it’s less known. The fruit often swells and bursts out of the papery husk, and while it is used green, it does ripen to a darker yellow colour, but purple, red, and orange varieties my be found. The so called “Cape Gooseberry” (P. peruviana) has many common names, but is native to South America. Its widespread cultivation in South Africa in the 19th century gave rise to the most popular of these names. The fruit develops completely contained in the husk, and ripens to a rich golden colour, at which stage it is juicy and sweet. It is quite strongly flavoured, though I am sure it is a “love or hate” taste, which may need some acquiring.

The plants are varied in size, from prostrate forms, to tall plants to about 2 metres, though their brittle stems may require some support or protection, like tomatoes. The thrive when given sufficient water and fertiliser, but seem to be much tougher than their more cultivated cousins, and they will survive and produce some fruit with little attention. Once planted, they often self-seed and pop up year after year, and in many cases survive the mild winters of the urban environment, and may start producing again the following spring. They may even become a desirable weed, something you don’t plant every year, but have an abundance of.

Seeds of these were sold to me as "Cossack Pineapple" (P. pruinosa). It remains to be tasted if that description is accurate, but they look cool.

Definitely worth a try if you like unusual ingredients, and especially if you wish to replicate authentic Mexican cuisine, without resorting to imported canned ingredients.

They came from beneath the earth!

I like growing weird things. Things you don’t see in the grocer, or only very rarely. Why? Because when things are in season in the garden, they are at their cheapest in the shops, generally speaking. So to make the most of a garden plot, it’s best to use it to produce things you can’t buy. And also because some of them look really cool, and you can slip them into “ornamental” gardens too.

They look like bad costumes from a low budget Sci Fi, but really it means I should plant these before the sprouting stems get much longer.

These potato-like vegies are Oca, also known as New Zealand Yams (Oxalis tuberosa). They are related to the weed Soursob (Oxalis pes-caprae), which is obvious from the familiar three foiled leaves, and their  similar tuberous structure underground. The underground perennating organ is what makes the weedy species in this genera so problematic in gardens: pulling them out usually leaves behind parts which can re-grow.

Despite having been served Soursob in a very expensive restaurant, I am not convinced of it’s food value. Oca, on the other hand is a staple part of the diet in parts of New Zealand, and throughout Polynesia in the South Pacific. Despite the common name, and the prevalence in cultivation there, the plant is not native to New Zealand. Like a huge proportion of garden vegetables, this one is from the Americas, where wild relatives can be found growing in the Andes, and cultivated varieties are also widely grown.

They are easy to grow, probably easier than Potatoes, and will apparently grow in partial shade. Planted in spring, they require a shortening day length, and a frost free environment to set good sized tubers. They don’t seem to have many pests, and the bushy plants are sort of attractive, though could be mistaken for a weedy cousin by an untrained eye. Unlike Spuds, which must be kept out of the sun to prevent them producing toxic alkaloids, Oca tubers must be exposed to the sun after harvest in winter to make them edible. The light destroys oxalic acid in the skin, and greatly improves their flavour. They can be eaten raw, which is how they are favoured in Mexico, or cooked. You could substitute them for Potatoes in just about anything. I am off to put these little fellas in pots, and see how they go.

Grow more pot(s)

Back in the 1990s, I heard a spoken word piece by Jello Biafra, formerly of the musical combo “Dead Kennedies”. His speech was heartfelt, and pointed out the political agenda behind the legal status of Cannabis sativa in the United States and most of the Western World, especially trading partners of the US. Much of this appears to be influenced by large chemical companies, patented processes, and nepotism. Once the most commonly grown fibre crop in the world, used in making everything from ship sails (“canvas” derives from the plant’s botanical name), and the best rope money could buy, to Levi’s jeans, and high quality paper; it is now barely cultivated (legally) at all. He at no point suggests that smoking copious bowls of the stuff will in any way improve anyone’s life, or help them achieve their goals. I tend to agree, unless those goals are knowing, by title, every episode of M*A*S*H. Or being able to accurately guess the prices on Antiques Roadshow before they come up on the screen.

A container "garden". There are at least a dozen useful and edible plants in here, I can see them from my kitchen window.

But that, my green-thumbed friends, is not what this post is actually about. It was a cunning ruse to attract your attention, and now I can talk about the real topic: Growing plants in containers. I live in the inner city of Melbourne, and at some point, the block of land on which my house is situated had a Mediterranean Makeover. In other words, every bit of bare soil, with only two exceptions, is covered in concrete. This left me with a few options:

a. Move house

b. Get over it

c. Hire a jackhammer

d. Grow things anyway

For numerous reasons, the first option was not viable. I like where I live in general, and I won’t bore you with talk of “the market” at the moment. The second option I tried. I put in an inflatable pool instead. It didn’t satisfy my urge to grow things, as all it grew were millions of mosquito larvae. Sorry neighbours. The third option sounds a lot like really hard manual labour, to which I am certifiably allergic, not to mention being in breach of my lease.

So, I just grow things anyway. A garden in any urban setting is a relatively thin layer of soil that’s conditioned to grow selected plants. In many cases, it’s already a kind of container anyway, bordered by lawn, concrete or fencelines anyway, and with a bottom created by the harder, less fertilised, less aerated soil below. So growing things in a pot, or any other container, is not really all that different to growing in the ground, with a few notable exceptions. One thing it’s really good for is growing root crops, especially those where the top dies back at harvest, like garlic, for example. Just tip out the pot and sift through to find the goodies.

Carrots and Parnsips grown in pots? Sure, why not? I did.

You can use anything as a container for growing plants, if it can hold “soil” (more accurately known as potting media), it can be used as a container to grow plants. Here’s where I start to qualify things. The best kind of containers are deep, with solid sides, and drainage at the bottom. The deeper the pot is, the more water it can hold, and the less often you will need to water it. By solid sides, I mean non-porous. Untreated terracotta pots are porous, which means they absorb water from the inside of the pot, and it evaporates off the outside surface, this means the pots can dry out more quickly. And drainage at the bottom allows for excess water to run off, because most plants don’t like waterlogged roots, and gravity generally makes water move in a downward direction. I do put saucers of some description under all my pots, though, as it helps indicate when they have been watered enough, and helps stop wasting any excess, as it will get drawn back up as plants use the water in the potting medium.

So, what is potting medium? It is any substance used to grow plants in containers that basically does what the soil does. It gives a physical framework for roots to grow in, it holds nutrients, it holds water, and it has large spaces in it for air to move through. Surprisingly enough, plant roots require air just as the shoots do, without it, they die, which can kill the whole plant, quite quickly in some cases. There is a balance between all these properties that form the ideal root environment for most plants, and a number of experiments that need to be carried out in order to assess various potting media. Luckily for non-boffins, there is an Australian Standard for potting mix. Actually there are two. Regular and Premium standard mixes are basically the same, the Premium containing a certain level of slow release fertiliser, while the Regular does not, though in both cases extra ingredients, such as “water saving” materials may be included. Look for the Standards Australia ticks on the bags, any other writing means very little, and price means even less!

So, what can you grow in containers? Anything. I have successfully grown Asparagus, Beans, Carrots, Dill, Eggplant, Fennel, Gherkins, Horseradish, Indian Bean Tree, Jicama, Kale, Lettuce, Marrow, Nasturtium, Onions, Parsnips, Queensland Blue Pumpkin (phew), Radishes, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Um… Violets, Waxberry, X-tra hot chillies, Yam Daisies and Zebra Beans. Almost A-Z, and all edible. Some things, like the larger pumpkins, might struggle in really hot weather, but there’s no reason not to give it a go. Just find the biggest pot you can and start from there. Most of my pots have been discarded by others and I picked them up for nothing, even the big 50+ litre ones. You could also use other things, I have seen many an old bathtub or laundry trough recalled into active duty as a planter. Even old toilet pedestals  get a run, sometimes. And the old black recycling tubs that councils used to give out were excellent. But I am not encouraging anyone to steal them.

These two potted Citrus I have had for years, the Aloe vera, not as long, but this is the extent of my actual "garden" behind them. Other fruit trees can go in pots, too

Watering is a big issue. The bigger the pots, the less you will have to water, but the more you can grow in them, too. If you have lots of pots, it might be better to install a watering system, so you can water them all evenly with a turn of the tap, rather than carting a watering can back and forth, or using the hose (with trigger nozzle) to water them individually for as long as your patience lasts. Drip watering heads can be used, though they may create channeling in the pot, where water forms a course and runs straight through and out the bottom. This can happen anyway, especially if the pot dries out and the potting mix shrinks away from the side of the container. The best thing in that situation is to soak the whole pot in a bucket of water for a few hours, then water as normal the next day. There are also special downward spraying heads especially designed for containers, and these are best to use with a watering system, as they spread the application of water, and reduce the risk of channeling.

If you are really keen, and don’t mind clearing it up when you leave, you can even build garden beds on top of the concrete. Any kind of solid box shape will do, as long as it can handle the weather, and keeps your “soil” in place, it will do the job, a depth of half a metre of space for roots to grow should produce results. You can often spy old terracotta pipes turned on their end being enjoyed as sort of bottomless pots in landscapes all over the place. The thing is, don’t be discouraged by your concrete wasteland. There are ways to make it work for you. And the best part of container growing? You get to take it all when you leave. All the work you put in at one location, can still bring in returns if you move.  So, come on renters, go for a walk, find some pots, and get growing.

Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme: Growing Herbs at home

According to my own poll from late last year, among the top five plants grown by readers of this blog were herbs. In order of preference, Basil, Parsley, Rosemary and Mint. Also in the top ten were Oregano and Thyme. And Chilli, but that’s a spice, not a herb. Though it may sometimes be regarded as herbaceous.

What’s the difference? My working definition is based on what part of the plant is used for culinary purposes. Some sources may even refer to “culinary herbs” to distinguish plants used in the kitchen from the botanical use of the term “herbaceous” to describe any non-woody plant. But I define a culinary herb as a plant from which foliage (leaves) are gathered and used in cooking, predominantly to add flavour. That includes some woody plants, and even trees like Bay (Laurus nobilis). Some are annual, and have to be replanted every year from seed, some perennial and last for a few years or more before needing replacement. A spice, on the other hand, is a plant product used in cooking that is not foliage. For example, Chilli and Paprika are made from the fruit of the Chilli plant (Capsicum spp.); Cinnamon is the bark of the Cinnamon tree (Cinnamomum spp.), Turmeric is a root (Curcuma longa), and so on. I could keep going, but that would take forever, or at least, the rest of the week.

Fennel can be grown to use as a herb, as a spice or as a vegetable. This Bronze Fennel is ornamental, too.

Now we’re all on the same page (this one, if you’re still reading), let’s move on. Herbs are ideal for small gardens, for urban gardens, for non-gardens and for beginners. The plants themselves can take up relatively little space, and even be grown successfully on window sills, either inside or outside, and balconies in containers if no proper garden is available.  They are also expensive to buy, and difficult to keep fresh once picked, giving added incentive to strike them from the shopping list. Nutritionally, fresh herbs are likely to contain more vitamins and minerals than cut bunches, due to the deterioration of compounds during transport as they are exposed to heat, light and air. Fresh herbs also have a much better flavour than dried herbs, and really that’s the reason we eat them. And there’s always the issue of “food miles”, in how far our dinner travels before it reaches the table.

Now, because of the diversity of plants collectively referred to as herbs, there are no strict rules that apply to all. However, many herbs, especially aromatic herbs like Basil (ocimum basilicum), Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) and Sage (Salvia officinalis) produce a stronger flavour in full sun, due to higher levels of oils in the leaves. These oils are a kind of defence mechanism for the plants, to make them unpalatable to browsing animals. Trust us humans to be the odd ones out. But other herbs, such as Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), will get stressed with too much sun, and shoot up flowers and produce seeds in a hot location. Parsley, in my experience, will grow just about anywhere, including cracks in the concrete. I prefer the flat leaf variety, it has more flavour, and as a chef friend pointed out recently, the only place you see curly parsley anymore is on raffled meat trays as garnish.

It's weeding Thyme, before the grass grows through. Thyme in flower.

I recommend treating groups of herbs in a similar fashion, based mostly on where they come from. The Mediterranean herbs, Rosemary, Basil, Oregano, Sage and Thyme can be grown together as a group, along with Parsley and Garlic. Not only will they all taste good together, they can all handle similar conditions in the garden: As much sun as they can get, and they usually can handle drying out a bit, and they all need a good dose of fertiliser, especially if they are harvested frequently. They would do well in a suitable section of garden, or a large pot together to save space, but mind that none of them dominate, they can be pretty competitive.

Ground covering herbs can be used to help suppress weeds and confuse potential pests, like Golden Marjoram around this Garlic

Another useful grouping is Coriander with Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum), or Chives (Allium schoenoprasum), Mint (Mentha spp.), Hot Mint (Persicaria odorata) and Lemongrass (Cymobopogon citratus) to make an Asian garden. Stick a Chilli in there too, and South East Asian inspired dishes are easily sorted. Most of these will tolerate a bit less sun, and a lot more water, Vietnamese (Hot) Mint and Lemongrass will even grow IN water most of the time.

There are clever ways to design herb gardens if you have the time and space, the Classic permaculture Herb Spiral design can be used, for example to get more plants in a small space that need different conditions. The other thing is to have them close to the kitchen door, you will use them more often if you see them all the time. If there’s no sun close to the kitchen door, think about having multiple planted portable gardens, old wheelbarrows, or planters on castors, so you can move them in and out of the sun periodically without a team effort.

Some people suggest keeping Mint in a pot, as it tends to run a bit rampant. Unless you REALLY like it. Eau de Cologne Mint.

I think herbs are the best option for beginners, too, because they give almost instant, easily repeated harvests from a small space, with only a little bit of effort. It’s pretty satisfying to be able to say to guests at dinner “I grew it myself”, even if it’s only the garnish. And at this time of year in Melbourne, you can pretty much plant anything. Don’t be afraid to interplant herbs amongst vegies and ornamental plants, too, there are no rules.

All the photos in this post were taken by me in the herb garden at Burnley Gardens which are open to the public every day.

Nothin’ lasts forever, even cold November rain

Yeah, it’s been coming down in torrents in Melbourne. Our dams are back up to half full, and for some reason, under Stage 2 water restrictions, we can water whenever we want, subject to certain conditions. Which, on the one hand is a good thing for us gardeners, but on the other, doesn’t seem like the smartest policy to adopt. Perhaps if dams were overflowing, we could start taking our water for granted, but even then, isn’t that how we ended up in the position we were in?

It’s a good thing all this extra rain has meant we don’t actually need to water our gardens as much, but like the man says, nothing lasts forever. In a couple of months time, we will be facing our usual scorching summer heat, and the temptation to water will return. Despite my personal opinion that not watering plants and letting them die is effectively wasting all the water previously applied to them, it is against the law to break restrictions, and there are penalties for those who do. Of course in many regional areas, there are stricter restrictions still in effect. The extra rain has also meant stronger regrowth in the areas regenerating after fires in 2009, though as the Premier recently pointed out, this can also mean higher fuel loads, and the risk of fires increases.

Regeneration in Kinglake National Park has been helped by spring rains

But, if you have been getting the rain, it is worth getting some planting done between cloudbursts. The natural rainfall is one of the best ways to water things in. If you are unsure what to stick in the ground at the moment, have a peek at the planting calendar for November, it’s still good! And just because our glass is half full, don’t forget we are still living on the driest inhabited continent. Take it easy with the water.

One other thing, the extra water has meant an explosion of snails, at least in my garden. If you are in the same position, it might be worth checking out this post on snail and slug control. There’s nothing more disheartening than planting out healthy young seedlings and having them destroyed overnight by hungry beasts. Keep an eye out for aphid attacks, too, especially on older plants going to seed, that seems to attract the little blighters.

It’s like a jungle sometimes it makes me wonder how to keep away the hunger.

It’s October, and the amount I have had to do lately has been completely mental, and I have wondered how I keep from going under more than once in the last couple of weeks. But for those interested, you should have a look at the planting list for October from last year, nothing’s changed (except there’s been more rain this year than I can remember in a decade).

I was recently riding my bike along Gardiner’s creek, or what is left of the creek now a freeway has been built on top of it for much of its length. I stopped to look at the weedy vegetation and saw a jungle’s worth growing along a section of bank that was not buried underground.

Closer inspection revealed that there was a veritable feast of food plants growing here in the wastelands of the burbs, food that would probably go to waste. I don’t just mean “edible” plants, ones that are basically non-toxic, and won’t kill you if you fang into them. I mean actual tasty food that is even sold as “gourmet” in some places. Have a look and see how many you can pick out of the photo, then I will point them out.

 

How many bits of dinner can you spot in this picture?

 

So, the Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) in the foreground should be the most obvious. Sure, it’s not as tender as the cultivated Finnochio you may buy at the greengrocer, but it’s perfectly edible, and has a rich aniseed flavour. When it’s young like this, it’s still tender enough to add to salad, and cooking is not really necessary.

Along the concrete wall in the background, there is a large swathe of Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus). The young leaves of this give a peppery zing to salads, and can be cooked as a kind of spinach substitute. The young seeds when still green have been pickled and used as a caper substitute. In amongst the orange and red flowers of the Nasturtium, there is a huge amount of Angled Onion, aka Onion Weed (Allium triquetrum) a much maligned relative of Leeks and Garlic, which is actually quite pretty with its white, six petalled drooping flowers. Though it is regarded as a weed, especially in bushland and pasture, most of the plant is edible, and tastes, not surprisingly, like a mild form of garlic. I have even been served this vegetable at a $300+ degustation at Attica, so it’s not to be dismissed lightly.

There is also the ubiquitous Blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) growing all over the place, and Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale), not to mention a number of wild plum and apple seedlings along the path, all of which would contribute to the hungry person’s larder. The blackberries, for all their scratchy evil, provide a safe refuge from cats and dogs for native animals, especially small birds, such as the Fairy Wren (Malurus cyaneus). The main issue here is that many of these useful and tasty plants are possibly sprayed by the local council for their weediness, making harvest of the fruits and leaves a bit worrisome. It is amazing that so many useful and edible plants can grow in one spot, basically unwanted and without anyone planning it. Just imagine how productive the urban landscape could be if such gardens were planned, planted and looked after. Not only that, but harvest of these plants would help keep them under control, so they wouldn’t spread into areas where they were not wanted.

Learning how to recognise wild food plants can help control weeds, and provide a fresh source of nutrition and flavour to your daily diet. Just keep your eyes peeled.

A place in the sun: You conduit!

I know, it’s September, and I haven’t put up a planting list. Why? Because last year’s list is still applicable! I have also been busy building in the backyard. After a brief flirtation with a temporary greenhouse, I was unimpressed by the shortcomings of the design, or lack thereof. It was a poor use of the horticultural grade plastic I had bought, and it was pretty unstable, and threatening to blow away in the slightest puff of wind. So I had to search for a better solution. I searched the internet for inspiration, and found this site, which gave me an idea.

Ready made clips to hold the top of the frame in place

While I don’t have space for a free standing hoophouse like the one they made, I figured I could attach half hoops to the existing walkway roof, and make a tunnel that way. I set about buying the materials I needed, basically enough 3 metre lengths of PVC electrical conduit to space them every 90 cm, and enough 90cm bits to span between them. In my case, that was seven hoops in all, and the conduit comes in 4 metre lengths, so the spacers can be cut from the ends of those lengths. The bits for joining them together are readily available, and really they just need to be cut to length and put together like a big Meccano set.

The top of the frame: It is kind of like building a model kit, it all just slots together

The bottom of the hoops just slip into the brackets in the wooden frame

I attached the top of the hoops with purpose built clips, and at the bottom just slotted them into ready made brackets attached to a simple wooden frame. The plastic was stretched over the whole thing, and held in place at the top by 20 mm irrigation pipe, cut into short sections and slit down one side. The ends were fixed by rolling the plastic around scrap wood and nailing them to the wall at one end, and my wooden frame at the other. The bottom of the plastic was just tucked under the wooden frame to hold it in place, and the excess cut off. As the plastic is over 7 metres wide, I used about half the width in total, so I could have easily turned it the other way and bought half the amount I did, as my greenhouse is about 7 metres long. Et voila! It will get hot in summer, but I can pull down the plastic and put up some shade cloth, then. You can see how much space there is for getting seeds started early for planting when spring hits properly. And speaking of which, look out for another post soon regarding preparation of garden beds for spring planting!

The finished product. Who wants tomatoes?

The whole thing took me about a day to put together, and that was making it up as I went along. It would be much faster with more than one person on the job. The beauty of this design is that it’s inherently flexible, it can be used for as long or as short a greenhouse as suits the site. The materials cost less than $200, as well, most of which was the cost of the horticultural grade plastic, which is certainly cheaper by far than the commercial alternatives available. This will extend the growing season in most temperate areas by a couple of months at least, allowing us to grow things that might not otherwise ripen, and get things going earlier than they would grow outdoors.

Shameless Self Promotion #2: Happy Birthday to me!

A year ago today, I first published a post under the name the Garden Doctor, and in the 12 months that followed, people have looked at my posts almost 15,000 times! I’m pretty happy with that, especially with very little publicity other than people who follow my twitter feed, are friends on facebook, or related to me by blood. Still, the title of that post was “Getting Started”, and that is where it all began.

Just as I found last year, this is the time people start to think about getting their hands dirty in the garden, and growing some vegies over the warm summer months. That’s what prompted me to write things down, as I often get the same questions over and over, so having a place I can direct people to saves me a lot of time answering each question individually. This is because it is also one of the times of year I am most busy, hence the lack of posts in the last couple of weeks.

So, what has been occupying my time, you may ask? For a start, I have been busy teaching horticulture, that’s what I do to pay the rent. But as well as that, I have been preparing for the arrival of Spring by sowing a huge number of seeds. I luckily have access to greenhouses and equipment at work, so that makes it easy for me, but as I’ve mentioned elsewhere, you can start seeds early with not much in the way of infrastructure.

Germinating some seedlings in plug trays

And speaking of infrastructure, I spent last weekend hastily putting up a temporary greenhouse in a concrete backyard. The frame is taken from a cheap gazebo, and is made of lightweight tubular metal poles. The covering is actually horticultural grade plastic, which is pretty expensive, anywhere between $10 and $20 per metre, depending on the source. But it is 7.2 metres wide, so a little bit probably won’t cost too much, and it lasts for 3-5 years depending on environmental conditions.

The 'finished' product

The most important thing for a greenhouse is to stop night time temperatures getting too low to avoid damage to young plants, and to raise daytime temperatures a couple of degrees to increase growth rates. The plastic allows light to pass through, but traps heat, and that does the job perfectly. It’s also cheaper than glass, and less dangerous if it breaks. This should do fine, as long as the weather is reasonably kind, and it doesn’t get deposited in someone else’s garden in a high wind. It is weighted down pretty heavily by some large pots, but it’s a pretty large sail area, each side wall is 2m x 2m, I am probably lucky in some ways to have a small sheltered backyard.

Lastly, I have been taking a radio training course, in order to take on another role as a presenter on Melbourne’s 3CR. I will help present the show Food Fight, which is on Tuesday evenings from 5.30 pm until 6pm every week. The show’s focus is on food production, distribution, and access. My first on-air slot is next Tuesday the 31st, so you can listen in on 855AM in Melbourne, or stream it on your computer. There are also weekly podcasts of the show in case you want to catch up any other time.

That’s a run down of my excuses for not updating, but don’t forget to ask me anything garden related at any time, and I will try to answer promptly. Anyway, here’s to another year in the blogosphere. Cheers!

Planting List: August

Look, I am just as surprised as you. August already? Where does the time go, isn’t the year flying by, etc. The last few weeks have been hectic as semester two just commenced Monday before last, and I had a lot more on my plate than usual, hence the lack of interesting and witty updates on gardening. But I have been busy in that area as well. Sowing in the glasshouse at work has begun in earnest, and just this week I have put in seeds of Tomatoes, Eggplants, Capsicums, Tamarillos, Alpine Strawberries and Cossack Pineapple (Physalis pruinosa) a relative of Cape Gooseberry and Tomatillo, which I should really feature in a post of their own.

So, anyway, Spring is starting to play hide and seek with us, popping in for the morning or the afternoon, before retreating and leaving us freezing again. But every time the sun pops its head in, the soil is warmed a little more, and the days are getting longer so the worst of the darkness is well behind us. If the weather is kind this weekend, it might be a good time to get out and assess the vegie patch, or potential vegie patch, or patch of un-mown lawn, or even sun-soaked concrete. There are ways of dealing with concrete that don’t require a jackhammer, crow-bar or sledge hammer. But that’s for another day, for now, here’s the list of things to plant this month!

Seeds (direct into the garden)

  • Broad beans (Vicia faba)
  • Beetroot (Beta vulgaris)
  • Cabbage (Brassica oleracea)
  • Carrot (Daucus carota) Tas. only
  • Chinese broccoli (Brassica rapa)
  • Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
  • Cress (Lepidium sativum)
  • Endives (Chicorium endivia)
  • Herbs (various)
  • Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea)
  • Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum)
  • Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) Winter varieties
  • Onions (Allium cepa)
  • Peas – dwarf (Pisum sativum)
  • Radish (Raphanus sativus)
  • Silverbeet (Beta vulgaris)

It may not look like much, but this spear of Asparagus represents HOPE! At this time of year, gardeners take what they can get. PS: reality check - there are aphids on this already

Seedlings/plants

  • All the above listed plants
  • Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) crowns
  • Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) root sections
  • Chinese Artichokes (Stachys affinis) tubers/plants
  • Horseradish (Amoracia rusticana) root sections
  • Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) crowns
  • Multiplier Onions (Allium cepa var.  aggregatum) bulbs
  • French Shallots (eschalots) (Allium oschaninii) bulbs
  • Strawberry (Fragarium x ananassa) crowns
  • Globe artichoke (Cynara scolymus) offshoots (slips)
  • Bare rooted fruit & nut trees
  • Deciduous berry & bramble fruits
  • Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum)

Under glass

  • Capsicum & chilli (Capsicum anuum & C. frutescens)
  • Cossack Pineapple (Physalis pruinosa)
  • Eggplant (Solanum melongena)
  • Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
  • Tomatillo (Physalis philadelphica)
  • Cucumber (Cucumis sativa)
  • Melons (Cucurbita spp)
  • Pumpkins (Cucurbita spp)
  • Zucchini/Squash (Cucurbita spp)

Okay gang, go nuts.

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